Fence boards with live edge (unbeveled), sanded, ends not beveled from locust wood

The boards are cut from straight-grown trunks and left in their rough-sawn state. Since the boards are not straightened on the sides (edged), they retain the natural shape of the trunk.

The narrow sides of the boards are freed from bark and bast; irregularities are smoothed out. The narrow sides remain rough. As the width of the boards naturally varies, a range measurement is provided.

The ends of the boards are cut at right angles on all sides. In the board, you can see the growth pattern of the trunk, including embedded branches.

Boards made from black locust cannot be nailed; black locust wood is far too hard for that. If you manage to drive in a nail, the wood may split because it does not give in. Even if you use wood screws, you must pre-drill. Stainless steel screws are recommended. Galvanized screws will start to rust outdoors sooner or later, while black locust wood will last for decades.

By choosing black locust wood, you are opting for a wonderful product of nature. This is not an artificial, standardized material. Each piece has its individuality, its liveliness through certain irregularities. These only become defects if they impair functionality.

Measurement tolerances: The specified thickness measurements apply with a tolerance of 10%, but in no case more than 5 mm (at the time of delivery). Due to drying, the thickness measurements can decrease by up to 6%. The specified length is accurate to 2 cm.

Quality features: Healthy wood; embedded knots are permissible. Construction wood.

Warping and cracks: Wood is alive because its moisture content – depending on the ambient humidity and climate – affects the dimensions and internal stresses of the wood. Across the grain (radial, tangential), the dimensions can change by up to 6% in practice, while along the grain (axial) the change is very slight.

Larger internal stresses are released by the wood warping and cracking. This must be taken into account. (Our ancestors, whose main material was wood, did this; we tend to forget it today.)

The above is even more true the harder the wood is; black locust wood is the hardest among woods.

How the wood warps and cracks is not concretely predictable. The drier the wood is, the greater the volume shrinkage and the more and larger the cracks generally are. There can be several cracks, or it can concentrate on just one large crack.

On the other hand, the thickness of the wood is crucial. The thicker the wood is, the greater the volume shrinkage that is "compensated" by the cracks. From wood thicknesses of 6 cm, cracks are unavoidable, no matter how carefully it is dried.

The ambient climate can vary greatly. Unprotected or covered outdoors, unheated or heated indoors, sunny side or shady side.

Since we do not know the ambient climate at the place of use, we deliver planed goods air-dried, i.e., with a wood moisture content of about 20%, no more. Then there are at most slight cracks for thicknesses from 6 cm – in relation to the thickness (see above). In a shady place, the wood will hardly dry out further.

Rapid further drying of the wood in the sun or in a protected place amplifies the stresses in the wood. Then the wood can warp and crack far beyond the inevitable extent.

The end faces of the wood are particularly at risk, as moisture escapes more quickly here. It is therefore advisable to protect and seal the end faces, for example, with a stain.

If you need to store the wood, please do so in a shady, cool place and secured.

Cracks do not impair the strength, load-bearing capacity, and lifespan of the wood.